Build it!: July 2011

Posting Summary.

While I was building a boat, I came up with vague idea of how we set the frames.
We built one for dory and two for Shaw 550. Every time we did it, I thought there's some chances of wasting time and material.

So what if we could set the frames on reusable and adjustable base?
It's just concept and I haven't developed it to details. It contains faulty features but the idea is the concept of adjustable(adaptable to any proper size boat) and reusable.

It consists of 3 components.
Rail System Base, Rail Frame Base and Frame Holders.

Rail system base is fixed onto the floor in workshop. On this base, Rail Frame base moves side to side. Rail System Base has a rule on its top face, with this measure, we fix the Rail Frame Base. Rail Frame Base has its self leveling knob and leveling bubble and with this, we could set it leveled and locked leveled.

Frame Holder can be added or removed depending on numbers of station and it moves forward and after. Frame will sit on here and it also has self leveling knob and leveling bubble.

With this Rail System,,
It's easier to level the frames, once it's leveled, then no need to level it again.(Once leveled you only need to mark the point on the leveling knob, then, later a lot easier to level it)

No need to set up and remove wooden base braces.
No need for wooden wedge.
Since it's adjustable to a certain size of boat, no time waste for setting up the frames.

I need to develop this idea to find whether it's practical and economical but for blog posting, I summarized just to this.

Portfolio Things.

For portfolio, we did it as a team and for some topics separately.

As three members of my former team were gone, I joined the team with Goran, Taz, Harrison, Eran.

So portfolio subject 1, 2, 3 were covered by other members as Goran commented on his blog(http://goran-a-g.blogspot.com/2011/07/group-work.html).

Subject 5 was my task and link to the subject is as below.

Portfolio Subject No.5

Portfolio subject No.4 was individual task and it's about how we could develop written communication and computer adaptive skills and prove it.

I think we all developed and proved those skills by doing blog postings on everyday's learning and reflection and also through composing manual and other documents on Google docs.

So first, we had to organize all digital files including photos and videos to compose blog postings. Then we had to edit all the source files into proper size(file size & resolution). We also needed to upload some files to the 3rd party service provider like YouTube. And we published it by digital means including blogger.com, Google Docs, YouTube and more.

To do this, I used web browser, MS Project/Opern Project, Google Docs, YouTube, MS Power Point, MS Excel, Photo Editing application, video editing and converting application and more.

Every thing must be published through digital means, we had adapt ourselves that way.

So I think all the postings and documents on Google docs are good example of how we developed those written communication and computer adaptive skills.

Composite Boatbuilding 9

Outside Hull Laminating

Since deck is fixed onto the hull firmly, now we need to move on to outside hull lamination.

First, to take the boat off from the frames easily, we removed some frames.

Then we took the boat off the frames and flipped it over onto the sawhorse and splash sitting we used for the deck.

We removed masking tapes and excess glue from the strip planked hull.

Then we removed excess glue with hand plane(Long one is better, No.5) and sanded it off with long board(40 to 60 Grain). When we were sanding, it is quite important that we feel the lump and hollow on the hull with our bare hand to make it fair.

Then Richard trimmed off the hull to the transom

We trimmed the center case and chisel out around the center case so that we could fill it with resin later.

Then, we start prep for glassing the hull.

And since we were glassing outside hulls, we need to to some counter-measure for overlap which is rebate sanding.

We also filled the gaps and holes on the hull and sanded it off again. Then, we sealed it.

We all know that there should be no sharp edge for glassing but the deck edge was still sharp. So it needs to be rounded. But the problem is that it is hard to make it rounded because it's upside down. And even when we move it onto the hull frames, these hull frames are still in the way. So we had to set up a few frames again and this time we cut the above of frames.

But by doing this, we damaged the frames which can be used again. So Chris gave us some idea on frames as below.

Then we started dry fit of glass.

We also attached glass plates for shroud on top sides. We did rebate sand around the glass plate because we would add one more layer of glass cloth on the glass plates for the shroud.

We sealed the center case hole from the bottom to the top for laminating.

Then, we started and finished the outside hull glassing

Then, we started making splash for trailers. This time we used marine class plywood for splash because it will be into the water and permanent.

First we scribed its shape and cut it out of the plywood. While we were doing this, we learned the difference between scribing and offset. If we want to do scribing, it must be plum to the subject.

Then we stacked the material for the splash and spread-ed the polyester resin.

Stack was as follows.

Plastic- Foam- Plasitc - Chop Strand (2 layers) - Core Mat - Chop Strand(2 layers).

For core mat, surface with holes must be facing the top.

The polyester resin we used is cheap but very toxic, and it's used mainly for building mass or company production plastic boat. We use MEKP(Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide??) as a hardener and its ration is 1.5% of polyester resin.

Since this MEKP could blind you and damage your skin and respiratory organ, you have to gear up with proper protection - Chemical Respirator, Safety Goggle and gloves. It is lucky that we don't need ear muff for this.

After glass part of splash is done, we fixed the plywood parts to the glass parts with glass cloth.

With auto-level, we could make it leveled and then with same length of wood, we can make it parallel.

We added wood brace onto the plywood not to be bent and this wood brace is used again later as a standing brace.

Another wood braces were attached to hold it in position.

We chopped wooden hull at the bow to the plum. Also we made a tape dam around bottom edge of the hull at the bow and then filled it with glue rather than chopping off it and replacing it with foam.

When those splash were done, we set the boat with splashes on the floor.

Composite Boatbuilding 8

Hull & Deck Joint and its prep.

Before we join the hull and deck, we still have a lots of jobs to be done.

1.Prod Tube Install

With two pieces of MDF, we made one drill guide and made holes around the nosecone then cut it out.

Later, water passage should be connected to the prod tube to center case so that water gets in through the prod tube could get out through the center case.

2.Life Line tube

Later metal pole for life line will be fitted in the tube, so we fixed the tube onto the hull and made hole on the deck for it.

3.Cabin hole on the B/H

We cut out big circle from the B/H, which will be an access to the cabin of the boat.

4.Other Hull Finishing up

We fixed B/H to the hull on the hull and girder. Then, we cut out the girder for center case fitting and vacuumed the floor.

So now, panel on the hull was completed and we did center case adjustment and cut out the center case inlet on the deck for dry fit.

Then we dry fitted the deck on the hull as below.

As you see, transom doesn't touch the hull, deck line is a bit higher than where it should be and there's gap between top sides and deck foam. To fix these things, we did many times of dry fit.

Then we rounded after face of girder to fit the coved transom as in photo below.

Then we carved some part of foam from b/H and filled it with rubberized epoxy rather than using flange.

Then we put the rubberized epoxy on the transom & girder flange and hull flange and went for hard fitting.

To fix the deck on right position and to make it jointed firmly, we used following methods.

Wood clamping on deck line.

Wedge to secure deck center line and fair line

Weight on the deck for firm and hard join.

After hard deck-hull joint, we still had following problems.

B/H doesn't touch the floor.

Deck doesn't sit on B/H properly.

To fix these problems, I think we added more foam to the B/H and glassed it. And also we completed coving under the deck and hull joint. When it's coved and glassed we put the heater inside of the cabin and sealed it with cardboard cover for inside cooking as in photo below.

Then we peeled of peel ply of the deck a bit and sealed gap in the hull-deck joint. Then, we covered it with masking tape to avoid glue contamination.

Composite Boatbuilding 7

Inside(Bottom) of Deck

Since outside of deck is done with glassing, now it's time to flip over the deck and do the inside of the deck.

Before we flip over the deck, sitting for the flipped deck needs to be ready.

Splash on blister was made when we were laminating the outside of deck.

To make sawhorse sitting table, we extended sawhorse legs and tried to level them with auto-level and story rod. Since it was time consuming, we brought self leveling laser level and made it at once as in video below.

Then, we needed to make sure that the deck should come off from the frames easily by removing screws, braces, frames and excess glue as in photo below.

Also some wood brace needs to be placed on the most fragile(flexible) point on the deck, in this case, it was where butt joints are.

Now, everything's done to flip over the boat, but don't forget these.

1.Mark where the splash fit on the deck

2.Mark the deck line point on the bottom of deck(Vee cut on frame is deck line) so that we could draw fair deck line out of it when flipped.

When we flipped the deck over, B/H frame also came with it and we had to take it off from the deck.

First we removed excess glue and chisel out some foam parts then did the same way as we did on dory - move the frames forward and after. But this time, frame was attached to the foam which is fragile, we did it with extra caution.

Then we did preparation for laminating starting with sanding off the excess glue and lump from the inside of the deck as in photo below.

Then we added another piece of foam(7mm thickness, may not be accurate) to the B/H and its side foams to fit the shape. Also carbon uni was placed on B/H too.

On transom, three glass plates were attached for twin rudders and outboard motor. One thing to note here is that we should try not to damage the transom glass.

Then we finished the laminating the inside of the deck.

While we were laminating the inside of the deck, we also did two B/H flange laminating at the same time.

Build it!

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Posting Summary.

Idea on small craft building.

Portfolio Things.

Composite Boatbuilding 9

Composite Boatbuilding 8

Composite Boatbuilding 7